Take a trip. It’s good advice. It shakes up your routine. It pushes you out of your comfort zone. Believe it or not, you can get pretty far out there just using the Deutschland-Ticket. It’s the inflated older sibling of the sexy 9-Euro-Ticket that took the summer by storm in 2022. For €63 per month, you can travel by local and regional transport throughout Germany however much you like. It’s well worth it to take some time and ride the rails out of Berlin and into that large, strange land that lies beyond. We’ve picked out some of our favourite recent D-ticket day trips – some safe go-tos, some wacky escapes – to inspire you to think outside the box of Berlin. Hear about our writers’ experiences in some pretty perfect places, all just a short Deutsche Bahn ride away!
Prerow: the Big Baltic Blue
For those who love the sea
The Ostsee gets a lot of flak. It’s flat, it’s cold – and it’s wildly underrated. When I stepped off the bus and that fresh, salty air hit, the trip to Prerow was already worth it. Fischland-Darß-Zingst – that peninsula that sticks out almost directly north of Berlin like a bent finger – might not have the luxury of islands like Sylt or the drama of Rügen’s cliffy coastline, but it’s celebrated for its long, sandy beaches, salty woodland and vast wildlife.
I didn’t bother much with Prerow town, cute as it is. Personally, I headed straight for the sea, stopping only to rent a bike and grab a Fischbrötchen: fresh herring in a roll with dried onions and horseradish (Germany’s greatest invention). I followed a coast-hugging bike path to Zingst, where I experienced a diving gondola that lowers you four metres below the surface of the sea. Or you can turn west for a longer, three-hour bike ride to the Nienhagen Wood National Forest. Also known as the Gespensterwald (Ghost Forest), the wood’s exposure to salty Baltic winds has stripped away the lower branches of its trees, which appear as thin, white, skeletons on foggy mornings. On my way, I stopped at red-brick lighthouses and historical piers.
I swam in the cold, clear water. I ate marinated cod with Rote Grütze for dessert, and countless cones of Softeis. My Ostsee initiation only stopped short of renting a Strandkorb – German aloofness in seaside form. In terms of accommodation, I camped at Regenbogen Prerow, a large campsite with an incredible location on the dunes of Prerow beach. At the height of summer, busy with families and late-night Schlager parties, it wasn’t exactly the natural paradise I’d hoped for (though if you opt for an FKK-friendly spot, it’s a bit more peaceful). But I’d definitely go back, if only for the joy of waking up 30 seconds from the sea.
By Ceri Savage
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Take the regional train to Ribnitz-Damgarten via Rostock (2.5 hours), then a local bus northwards for about an hour to Prerow.
- Where to Stay: Regenbogen Prerow for a unique, beachy camping experience or the nearby Best Western Plus for a spa, pool and a tad more luxury.
- Where to Eat: When you’ve had enough of Fischbrötchen, check out Fischrestaurant Seeblick, a traditional, casual dining spot by Prerow pier with a terrace facing the sea.
Naumburg: Proving German Wine Is More Than Fine
For those who love wonderful wine
Did you know that UNESCO-protected landmarks, rolling vineyards and some of the best wine Germany can offer is all within a day trip from Berlin? The Saale-Unstrut region in Saxony-Anhalt takes you far from the flat plains of Brandenburg into an area of dramatic landscapes littered with castles and vineyards. So many of the wines from Saale-Unstrut don’t even make it out of the region due to limited production capacity.
So, personally, I had no choice but to go there. Nicknamed the ‘Tuscany of the North’, the Saale and Unstrut riverbanks are lined with a glut of grand wine estates, local Straußwirtschaften huts and even several wine vending machines, many of which are accessible on foot along the Saale-Weinmeile (Saale Wine Mile). During my last visit, I began a mini wine escapade from the medieval town of Naumburg all the way to Bad Kösen, a stunning, picturesque village best known for its giant, salt-producing graduation tower that resembles something out of Game of Thrones.
Hiking along the steep, terraced vineyards and rolling hillsides – which hide small, remote castles and palaces – I visited many of the wineries in one go. The area is well-known for its mineral-driven, cool-climate white and sparkling wines, some of which have been given the seal of excellence by the VDP, Germany’s society of top winemakers. Wherever I looked, winemaking was deeply ingrained in the culture and landscape, hence its Tuscan-like ambience.
Nowhere encapsulated this better than the village of Roßbach, home to award-winning wineries situated in quaint, farming courtyards. Just outside the village is the unbeatable Weingut Hey, where I hunkered down among the steep, inclined vineyards to enjoy some of their fine Rieslings, pinot blancs and home-cooked meals while soaking up some Saxon sunshine. East German wine shouldn’t be overlooked, especially when this top wine region is so close to Berlin.
By Dan Cole
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Take the regional train to Erfurt with a change at Magdeburg (4 hours), then travel straight through to Naumburg (50 mins).
- Where to Stay: One of the best places to stay is the Weinhotel Freylich Zahn in Freyburg. Located in an old granary, each room comes with a wine refrigerator stocked with the best regional brands.
- Where to Eat: You have to dine at Weingut Hey and sample their award-winning wines and locally sourced, home-cooked dishes, sitting outside in their vineyards perched just off the River Saale.
Wittenberg: We’ve Got 95 Theses About Why to Go
For those who love rich history
When I stepped off the train in Wittenberg, known across Germany as Lutherstadt, the gravitas of history wasn’t immediately obvious. Like many small German locales, banal rail stations conceal old town centres and the still-living pasts just beyond them. But after a short stroll, I could feel the weight of time hanging heavy in the air. This is the place, after all, where Martin Luther, the Augustinian friar whose ideas laid the foundation for what would be called the Protestant Reformation, lived as a teacher and vicar. It’s the the town where he preached and ultimately (or reputedly, according to historians) nailed his 95 Theses to the door of the Schlosskirche with hammer strokes that challenged the papacy and echoed across Europe and beyond. Located on the banks of the Elbe just 90km southwest of Berlin, Wittenberg makes an easy day trip.
Compact enough to explore on foot, I spent the late morning and afternoon wandering the picturesque old town, which stretches along two broad parallel streets lined with pastel-coloured buildings, a stunning market square, cafés, church towers and souvenir stands selling Luther-themed memorabilia. A single thoroughfare in the town contains four UNESCO World Heritage Sites. At one end stands the Schlosskirche, its towering, bronze doors engraved with the text of Luther’s theses. A short walk away are the Lutherhaus, the former monastery where the titular priest lived and worked, and the Stadtkirche St Marien, where he preached to local congregations.
Yet five centuries after Luther’s confrontation with Rome, Wittenberg remains a living town rather than a medieval set and its history extends far beyond the Reformation. Around 1500, it was a prosperous centre of learning and political power within the Holy Roman Empire, home to a university that attracted scholars from across Europe. Its historic centre survived both the bombing raids of World War II and decades of GDR rule largely intact. That history isn’t always comfortable to reckon with.
High on the exterior of the Stadtkirche sits Wittenberg’s most unsettling artefact: the so-called ‘Judensau’ (Jewish pig), a stone relief dating to around 1290. Easy to miss if you don’t crane your neck, the weathered carving depicts figures identified as Jews by their pointed hats and gathered around a sow, an animal considered unclean in Judaism. Intended to humiliate, it reflects the antisemitism that permeated medieval and (later) Christian Europe. An explanatory plaque and a cedar tree planted beneath it attempt to place the sculpture in its historical context and act as a symbol of peace. Still, in Wittenberg, the past lives on – sometimes stubbornly so.
By Harrison Samphir
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Take the RE3 regional train directly from Berlin Hbf to Lutherstadt Wittenberg Hbf (1.5 hours).
- Where to Stay: For cheap accommodation, try the DJH Hostel (€40 per night) or the historic Boutique Hotel Schwarzer Baer, occupying a historic building directly beside the Schlosskirche and within walking distance of all major sights (€80-100 per night).
- Where to Eat: For traditional Sachsen-Anhalt cuisine, try Wittenberger Kartoffelhaus Zum Schwarzen Bär in the old town. Or grab a quick bite at WittenBurger, located right on the edge of the market square.
Flugplatz Schönwalde: Adventure in a former air base
For those who love abandoned places
Beyond Berlin’s Zone C, deep into the fields, lies a place forgotten by time, God and even urban explorers. After all, it’s not like you can just take the tram to Flugplatz Schönwalde, or even the S-Bahn. It’s Deutschland-Ticket territory. Or, as I one day decided, a prime destination for a bicycle trip. Google Maps said the ride would take about 1.5 hours.
In reality, it took triple that. By the time I got to Flugplatz Schönwalde (getting lost on at least two occasions), the sun was beginning to set. I’d really recommend taking the train. Flugplatz Schönwalde is an abandoned military airport northwest of Berlin. Built by Nazis in 1935, it was taken over by the Soviets in 1945 and has been lying abandoned since 1992. The site is openly accessible; there’s no fence around the property and I didn’t encounter any guards. Still, urban exploration is technically illegal in this country, so you’re better off avoiding contact with anyone you don’t know (for the current status of Flugplatz Schönwalde, check out abandonedberlin.com).
It’s enormous, easily one of the largest abandoned places I’ve ever been to – and I’ve been to a few. It encompasses a good 40 or 50 multiple-storey buildings and massive hangars in various states of disrepair. Of course, there’s also a disused runway and remnants of taxiways. By the time I had finished exploring all the buildings, it was after midnight and I had zero interest in biking all the way home. The last train from Hennigsdorf, the nearest S-Bahn terminus, was in 20 minutes. Knowing I wouldn’t make it in time, I found a nice balcony and waited until dawn. In the right company (and having stocked up on Sternis beforehand), the three hours until the first S-Bahn of the morning went by like a breeze.
By Aleksander Lawrence Pacholka
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Get the S-Bahn or regional train to Spandau, then take the 671 bus for 35 minutes to Schönwalde (HVL) (all public buses in Germany are also included in your D-Ticket). From there, it’s about 15 minutes on foot to the southernmost hangars.
- Where to Stay: If you want to follow in my footsteps and spend the night, there are hundreds of rooms you can hole up in. Of course, you should bring a sleeping mat and blanket at the very least.
- Where to Eat: Take a picnic to enjoy high up on a balcony with views of the airbase. Stock up before you go because even though there used to be a dining hall on site, it’s long closed by now.
Großer Stechlinsee: From Nuclear Site to Pristine Paradise
For those who love idyllic lakes
It’s the jewel of north Brandenburg, a deep lake with transparent water, plenty of shoreline to share and a delicious fish hut for lunch. Stechlinsee is close enough to reach on a Bahn or a bike. It’s a day trip from Berlin, but far enough to filter out the unadventurous crowds. You can never really get the measure of Stechlinsee: its odd shape, like three splayed fingers, obscures the view from every vantage point. But it’s verifiably large, with a shoreline of 16km and a depth of up to 70m, making it the deepest lake in Brandenburg.
I visit at least once a year, taking my bike on a regional train to the town of Furstenburg (Havel), then riding through the dappled forest for nine kilometres on decent paths to reach the village of Neuglobsow on the shores of Stechlinsee. The lake’s main beach is there, perfect for families and those needing easy access to Pommes and Eis. Carry on past the beach to find the Fischerei Stechlinsee, a rustic restaurant serving local and imported fish of all flavours – grilled, fried, pickled or smoked. You can see your future lunch swimming in fish pens just at the water’s edge. It’s a beautiful spot to sit and enjoy a meal. Or, pack a picnic for later.
You’ll find plenty of romantic spots along the shore. I always carry on, riding the sandy path counter-clockwise to reach the furthest northern tip of the lake. Here, far from the crowds, is the unofficial FKK area, where even on the busiest day you can find an isolated pocket on the lake’s edge to watch the dazzling sunlight dance on the rippling surface. The water is glass-clear with a slight blue tinge, best viewed through a snorkelling mask or swimming goggles as you stroke out over the glacier-carved depths. Contrasting the enchanting scenery is the unsettling sight of a giant chimney rising above the treeline.
This belongs to the decommissioned Rheinsberg nuclear power plant, which operated from 1966 to 1990, pumping warm water from its reactors into Stechlinsee. But paradoxically, the old plant is the reason the lake is quantifiably clean. A permanent floating testing station measures for any residual atomic effects – and has consistently found the lake to be perfectly healthy.
By Joel Dullroy
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Take the regional train straight from Berlin Hbf to Fürstenberg (Havel) for one hour. From there, it’s a 10-minute bus ride or 30-minute bike ride to Neuglobsow.
- Where to Stay: Neuglobsow has a collection of small holiday apartments for a quiet retreat, as well as Luisenhof Restaurant und Hotel. Or check out Wanderquartier Stechlinsee campground.
- Where to Eat: Fischerei Stechlinsee is your best lakeside choice. Or there’s Fontanehaus selling traditional German dishes further into the village.
Hellerau’s Festspielhaus: a Vibrant Home for Performance
For those who love unique theatre
Here’s a true fact: Florentina Holzinger taught me how to box at Hellerau in 2019. The famous choreographer was facilitating a workshop at the dance symposium Tanzkongress in the historic Festspielhaus. I’d bundled down there with my colleagues from UdK’s solo dance authorship (SODA) MA programme to explore the festival and parts of Dresden. Hellerau is an idyllic garden city (the first in Germany) just north of Dresden centre, easily accessible with the tram in around 30 minutes.
When it was built in 1911, the Festspielhaus was a theatre and educational centre combining the modern architecture of Heinrich Tessenow with the sounds of music teacher Émile Jaques-Dalcroze. It served as a melting pot of artistic talent for the best part of the early 20th century. In 2006, it was renovated and renamed the European Centre for the Arts and is now considered one of the most important international centres of contemporary art in Germany and Europe.
When not hosting a national dance symposium (with boxing lessons) the Festspielhaus has an international arts programme featuring performance, theatre, dance, music and educational workshops. This summer, they’re showing works by the Dresden Frankfurt Dance Company and hosting an event that celebrates 30 years of the Saxon Academy of Arts. Of course, the majority of what they do is in German, but with such an international programme, English events are also popular.
Elsewhere in Dresden, I recommend checking out the Hechtviertel district, which shows signs of the city’s war-ravaged history – most notably, an abandoned church ruin that sometimes hosts concerts and theatre productions. If you’re looking for a taste of leftist squat culture, you’ll find parts of that in the neighbouring Neustadt district. But Hellerau alone really is worth the jaunt from Berlin – a unique place frozen in time.
By Rhyannon Styles
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Take the RE3 from Hauptbahnhof towards Falkenberg (Elster). Here, transfer to the RE15 train to Dresden Hauptbahnhof. Journey time is around 3.5 hours, so if you’re going to make a day of it, best to get up early.
- Where to Stay: I was there for four nights, so I rented an Airbnb with friends in the Äußere Neustadt, Dresden’s alternative, creative district. It’s just north of the Elbe and slightly south of Hellerau. Everything is easily accessible by tram.
- Where to Eat: Cafe & Bar Blumenau is a really easy place to grab a coffee and eat something on the way to Hellerau. If you get the chance, their morning bowls are delicious (I told you to get up early).
Satama Spa: a Wild ‘Well-tainment’ Experience
For those who love spa life
Have you ever sat naked in a sauna with 100 sweaty strangers, cheering and clapping with gusto to Kool & the Gang’s ‘Celebrate’ at a fake birthday party? I have. And it was glorious. My love of spas is a relatively recent phenomenon. Despite having lived in Berlin for more than a decade, I only visited Vabali for the first time last year. I discovered a passion for an Aufguss and a strange delight in enduring a sauna so hot it makes me feel like my skin is peeling off.
The downside with Vabali is that it’s incredibly busy, so my partner and I searched for a spa outside of Berlin to get an equivalent fix a little further afield. We searched for places we could reach with the Deutschland-Ticket, and Satama Spa and Resort at Scharmützelsee came up trumps. Would it match the high spa standards to which I had become accustomed? No. It would redefine them. When I first walked down the corridor to the changing rooms of Satama, I noticed that the walls were adorned with photos of people performing in saunas in cat costumes and cowboy hats.
Naturally, this raised questions. Thankfully, by the time we left, they’d been well and truly answered. On the surface, Satama has everything you expect from an excellent resort: saunas with Aufguss programmes, a top-quality restaurant, a wonderful outdoor pool, plenty of deck chairs, sun loungers and hammocks, a cute library, a chill-out room with beds and a gorgeous view of Scharmützelsee. It also has things you might not expect. One is an ability to access the lake directly from the garden, meaning you can go straight from the sauna to a freshwater swim. The other is that they specialise in ‘well-tainment’. What is well-tainment, you ask? It’s the unique combination of theatre and sauna. Yep, that’s right.
That’s how I found myself clapping and singing in a sauna while the Aufgussmeisterin performed a one-woman show about a birthday party she was excited for, but then everyone cancelled – but then, it turned out to be a surprise party! It was honestly a joyous experience. These special shows happen once daily during the week and twice daily at weekends. On paper, it sounds like a wild idea. In reality… it is a wild idea. But it’s unique, fun and pure vibes. Where Vabali can be painfully serious and po-faced, Satama implores you to have a good time. So if you’re in need of light relief and deep relaxation, go get yourself ‘well-tained’ on the shores of Scharmützelsee.
By Jonny Tiernan
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Get the RE7 regional train to Königs Wusterhausen (2 hours), then take the RB36 to Wendisch Rietz. From there, it’s around a 20-minute walk.
- Where to Stay: If you’d like to stay overnight, there are plenty of options for cute apartments in the area, many within walking distance of the spa resort and close to the lake. Check out satama-saunapark.de for details.
- Where to Eat: The spa restaurant itself is very high quality and has plenty of vegan and vegetarian options. Personally, I had the planted steak and it was well-tainingly good.
Leipzig: Bountiful Food for Culture Vultures
For those who love city exploration
So, is Leipzig really like Berlin was 10 years ago? It’s known to be rough around the edges: punk bars, squats, graffiti, art and DIY parties, even good techno. But if it is the Berlin of 10 years ago, it hides it pretty well. What I saw was one of the most breathtakingly green, clean and stunning cities I’ve ever seen. The first night, I went to see a play that a friend of mine did the set design for at Diskotek, Schauspiel Leipzig’s venue dedicated to contemporary work.
Following a run of seeing some frankly awful productions in Berlin, my hopes weren’t high, but the play, Wüste, was hilarious, smart, engaging and beautifully acted. The theatre itself was just intimate and progressive enough to put on this quirky, mind-bending sci-fi production. Point one for Leipzig. The next day, I hit the galleries. My trip to Baumwollspinnerei, Leipzig’s best-known art complex, was uncomplicated. When I stepped off the train, I felt like I was back in Williamsburg, taking in the wide river flowing past a complex filled with repurposed old brick warehouses, each one holding a different art-related space.
My first stop was Halle 14. I didn’t care much for most of the artworks at first, but in the end, I found an artist from Leipzig whose work spoke to me: Bérenice Gaça Courtin. She spun huge tapestries with post-internet, post-truth imagery, some pieces hanging from the hall’s high ceiling. Next, I came for EIGEN + ART and wasn’t disappointed. They were showing the contemporary, slightly surreal works of Igor Hosnedl. Another highlight was R E I T E R featuring the works of Sebastian Schrader. I hadn’t heard of him before and usually don’t love photorealism, but his paintings of dried flowers were just on-the-nose melancholic enough to really work. Point two for Leipzig.
Back in town, I visited the bakery Kleinert to enjoy the pastry that Leipzig is famous for, the Leipziger Lerche, filled with rich marzipan, fruity jam and decorated with a glazed cross on top. Point three for Leipzig. I had already covered theatre and art, so that left music. A friend told me about a day-long concert and market happening on the outskirts of the Connewitz neighbourhood. I decided to check it out on my last night. ‘This is where I’ll see the grunge,’ I thought. But what I found was a green oasis filled with people I can only describe as hippies dancing shoeless in the grass to psychedelic jazz. It was like being transported to another place, another time – definitely not Berlin 10 years ago, but still great. By this point, I found it fair to stop tracking points. Leipzig is definitely a win!
By Cathy Bijur
At a Glance:
- Getting There: Take the RE7 to Dessau (1.5 hours) and change to the RE13 towards Leipzig Hbf (40 min).
- Where to Stay: Find an Airbnb or hotel in the Eisenbahn neighbourhood if you like a Neukölln vibe or Plägwitz if you’re more up for a relaxed Prenzlauer Berg atmosphere.
- Where to Eat: FREDO for vegan hot dogs and ice cream and Mala for excellent Knödel (vegan options available).
